Costin’s previous jewellery, which McQueen had used in his graduation show in 1992, employed the techniques of taxidermy and dissection. The deathly references were explicit in this collection in which fashion became the locus of darker meanings. The jet headpiece made the memento mori imagery explicit, as did a McQueen lace top which extended over the head to cover the face like a hangman’s hood.
Alexander McQueen, Dante, Fall–Winter 1996–1997 Photography Niall McInerney
Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness by Caroline Evans, Yale University Press